5: Coastal hydrodynamics
- Page ID
- 16191
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- 5.3: Wave asymmetry and skewness
- In the previous sections linear wave propagation from deep to shallow water was dis- cussed. We considered the propagation and conservation of a bulk quantity, the energy, in the shoaling region and breaker zone without considering any exchange of energy (or momentum) between different wave components due to non-linear interactions. The local wave characteristics were described by linear wave theory.