3: Ocean Waves Last updated Oct 11, 2021 Save as PDF 2.8: Summary of coastal classification 3.1: Introduction Page ID16179 Judith Bosboom & Marcel J.F. StiveDelft University of Technology via TU Delft Open ( \newcommand{\kernel}{\mathrm{null}\,}\) 3.1: Introduction3.2: Oscillations of the ocean water surface3.3: Measuring ocean surface elevations3.4: Short-term wave statistics3.4.1: Description of wave characteristics3.4.2: Analysis of the time-series3.4.3: Spectral Analysis3.4.4: Short-term wave height distribution3.5: Wind wave generation and dispersion3.5.1: Locally generated sea3.5.2: Wave Dispersion3.5.3: Wave groups3.5.4: Sea versus swell waves3.6: Long term statistics and extreme values3.7: Generation of the tide3.7.1: Equilibrium theory of the tide3.7.2: Gravitational pull3.7.3: Differential pull or the tide-generating force3.7.4: Spring and neap tide3.7.5: Daily inequality3.7.6: Tidal constituents3.8: Propagation of the tide3.8.1: Dynamic theory of tides3.8.2: Amphidromic Systems3.8.3: Kelvin waves3.9: Tidal analysis and prediction