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17: Coastal Processes and Tides

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    30174
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    In the last chapter I described waves on the sea surface. Now we can consider several special and important cases: the transformation of waves as they come ashore and break; the currents and edge waves generated by the interaction of waves with coasts; tsunamis; storm surges; and tides, especially tides along coasts and in the deep ocean.

    • 17.1: Shoaling Waves and Coastal Processes
      Wave properties for shoaling waves propagated from deep to shallow water. Brief discussion of breaking waves and wave-driven currents.
    • 17.2: Tsunamis
      Overview of tsunamis and the models used to forecast tsunami heights.
    • 17.3: Storm Surges
      Effects of storm surges and a first approximation for finding the sea surface slope based on wind stress.
    • 17.4: Theory of Ocean Tides
      How interactions between Earth and the Sun and Moon create tidal potential. Methods for predicting tidal frequencies.
    • 17.5: Tidal Prediction
      Methods for predicting tides in ports and shallow water, using tide-gauge data, and in the deep ocean, using satellite altimetry. Calculations of power dissipated by the tides.
    • 17.6: Important Concepts
      Summary of important concepts covered in this chapter.


    This page titled 17: Coastal Processes and Tides is shared under a CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 license and was authored, remixed, and/or curated by Robert H. Stewart via source content that was edited to the style and standards of the LibreTexts platform.