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17: Coastal Processes and Tides

Last updated

Nov 11, 2024
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- 16.7: Important Concepts
- 17.1: Shoaling Waves and Coastal Processes

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In the last chapter I described waves on the sea surface. Now we can consider several special and important cases: the transformation of waves as they come ashore and break; the currents and edge waves generated by the interaction of waves with coasts; tsunamis; storm surges; and tides, especially tides along coasts and in the deep ocean.

17.1: Shoaling Waves and Coastal Processes
Wave properties for shoaling waves propagated from deep to shallow water. Brief discussion of breaking waves and wave-driven currents.
17.2: Tsunamis
Overview of tsunamis and the models used to forecast tsunami heights.
17.3: Storm Surges
Effects of storm surges and a first approximation for finding the sea surface slope based on wind stress.
17.4: Theory of Ocean Tides
How interactions between Earth and the Sun and Moon create tidal potential. Methods for predicting tidal frequencies.
17.5: Tidal Prediction
Methods for predicting tides in ports and shallow water, using tide-gauge data, and in the deep ocean, using satellite altimetry. Calculations of power dissipated by the tides.
17.6: Important Concepts
Summary of important concepts covered in this chapter.

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