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Geosciences LibreTexts

6: Coasts

  • Page ID
    13492
    • 6.1: Introduction
      The term coastal studies, which is in common use for a great variety of approaches to coastlines, covers a large area of endeavor. What do I mean by the term coastal? There are various definitions or interpretations, depending on how much or how little is included seaward and landward of the shoreline.
    • 6.2: Classification
      What are coasts like generally, and how can they be classified? I won’t try to develop any formal or exhaustive classification here, but there are several important varieties I want you to be aware of and thinking about.
    • 6.3: Tides and Tidal Currents
      Go to any seacoast and build a tide gauge to obtain a record of sea level as a function of time (over a period of weeks or months) by somehow damping out or averaging over or filtering out the effects of waves on time scales of seconds and storms on time scales of days to weeks. What would you observe? In most places, you would find regular and systematic fluctuations in water level with dominant “periods” of about half a day or about one day, together with more subtle longer-term patterns on ti
    • 6.4: Beaches
      First go back to Chapter 1 and review the material on surface gravity waves. Now it’s time to think about what happens to a train of waves propagating from the deep ocean to the shoreline.
    • 6.5: Deltas