13.15: Chapter References
- Page ID
- 31692
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\(\newcommand{\avec}{\mathbf a}\) \(\newcommand{\bvec}{\mathbf b}\) \(\newcommand{\cvec}{\mathbf c}\) \(\newcommand{\dvec}{\mathbf d}\) \(\newcommand{\dtil}{\widetilde{\mathbf d}}\) \(\newcommand{\evec}{\mathbf e}\) \(\newcommand{\fvec}{\mathbf f}\) \(\newcommand{\nvec}{\mathbf n}\) \(\newcommand{\pvec}{\mathbf p}\) \(\newcommand{\qvec}{\mathbf q}\) \(\newcommand{\svec}{\mathbf s}\) \(\newcommand{\tvec}{\mathbf t}\) \(\newcommand{\uvec}{\mathbf u}\) \(\newcommand{\vvec}{\mathbf v}\) \(\newcommand{\wvec}{\mathbf w}\) \(\newcommand{\xvec}{\mathbf x}\) \(\newcommand{\yvec}{\mathbf y}\) \(\newcommand{\zvec}{\mathbf z}\) \(\newcommand{\rvec}{\mathbf r}\) \(\newcommand{\mvec}{\mathbf m}\) \(\newcommand{\zerovec}{\mathbf 0}\) \(\newcommand{\onevec}{\mathbf 1}\) \(\newcommand{\real}{\mathbb R}\) \(\newcommand{\twovec}[2]{\left[\begin{array}{r}#1 \\ #2 \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\ctwovec}[2]{\left[\begin{array}{c}#1 \\ #2 \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\threevec}[3]{\left[\begin{array}{r}#1 \\ #2 \\ #3 \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\cthreevec}[3]{\left[\begin{array}{c}#1 \\ #2 \\ #3 \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\fourvec}[4]{\left[\begin{array}{r}#1 \\ #2 \\ #3 \\ #4 \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\cfourvec}[4]{\left[\begin{array}{c}#1 \\ #2 \\ #3 \\ #4 \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\fivevec}[5]{\left[\begin{array}{r}#1 \\ #2 \\ #3 \\ #4 \\ #5 \\ \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\cfivevec}[5]{\left[\begin{array}{c}#1 \\ #2 \\ #3 \\ #4 \\ #5 \\ \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\mattwo}[4]{\left[\begin{array}{rr}#1 \amp #2 \\ #3 \amp #4 \\ \end{array}\right]}\) \(\newcommand{\laspan}[1]{\text{Span}\{#1\}}\) \(\newcommand{\bcal}{\cal B}\) \(\newcommand{\ccal}{\cal C}\) \(\newcommand{\scal}{\cal S}\) \(\newcommand{\wcal}{\cal W}\) \(\newcommand{\ecal}{\cal E}\) \(\newcommand{\coords}[2]{\left\{#1\right\}_{#2}}\) \(\newcommand{\gray}[1]{\color{gray}{#1}}\) \(\newcommand{\lgray}[1]{\color{lightgray}{#1}}\) \(\newcommand{\rank}{\operatorname{rank}}\) \(\newcommand{\row}{\text{Row}}\) \(\newcommand{\col}{\text{Col}}\) \(\renewcommand{\row}{\text{Row}}\) \(\newcommand{\nul}{\text{Nul}}\) \(\newcommand{\var}{\text{Var}}\) \(\newcommand{\corr}{\text{corr}}\) \(\newcommand{\len}[1]{\left|#1\right|}\) \(\newcommand{\bbar}{\overline{\bvec}}\) \(\newcommand{\bhat}{\widehat{\bvec}}\) \(\newcommand{\bperp}{\bvec^\perp}\) \(\newcommand{\xhat}{\widehat{\xvec}}\) \(\newcommand{\vhat}{\widehat{\vvec}}\) \(\newcommand{\uhat}{\widehat{\uvec}}\) \(\newcommand{\what}{\widehat{\wvec}}\) \(\newcommand{\Sighat}{\widehat{\Sigma}}\) \(\newcommand{\lt}{<}\) \(\newcommand{\gt}{>}\) \(\newcommand{\amp}{&}\) \(\definecolor{fillinmathshade}{gray}{0.9}\)Bascom, Willard. 1964. Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface. Garden City: Anchor Press. https://archive.org/details/wavesbeaches00doub
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Bascom, Willard, and Kim McCoy. 2021. Waves and Beaches: The Powerful Dynamics of Sea and Coast. Ventura: Patagonia. https://www.patagonia.com/product/waves-and-beaches-the-powerful-dynamics-of-sea-and-coast-book/BK855.html
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Brown, Bruce. 1966. The Endless Summer. Cinema V. Film. 95 minutes. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060371/
Butt, Tony. 2014. Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press. https://uhpress.hawaii.edu/title/surf-science-an-introduction-to-waves-for-surfing/
———. 2021. “Hurricane Larry: How to Track Swells and Calculate Storm Distance.” Magicseaweed. September 7, 2021. https://magicseaweed.com/news/hint-you-can-use-our-swell-charts-to-tell-how-far-away-a-storm-is/11738/
Center for Western Weather and Water Extremes (CW3E). 2021. “CW3E Event Summary: 19-26 October 2021.” October 23, 2021. CW3E. https://cw3e.ucsd.edu/cw3e-event-summary-19-26-october-2021/
Dally, William R. 2001. “The Maximum Speed of Surfers.” Journal of Coastal Research 29: 33–40. https://www.jstor.org/stable/25736203
do Carmo, José Simão Antunes. 2022. “Dominant Processes that Amplify the Swell Towards the Coast: The Nazaré Canyon and the Giant Waves.” Research, Society, and Development 11(11): e578111133804. https://doi.org/10.33448/rsd-v11i11.33804
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Michell, J. H. 1893. “XLIV. The Highest Waves in Water.” The London, Edinburgh, and Dublin Philosophical Magazine and Journal of Science 36(222): 430-437. https://doi.org/10.1080/14786449308620499
Perlin, Marc, Wooyoung Choi, and Zhigang Tian. 2013. “Breaking Waves in Deep and Intermediate Waters.” Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 45: 115–145. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-fluid-011212-140721
Pilastro, Eleonora. 2022. “Sebastian Steudtner Surfs Giant Wave and Smashes World Record.” Guiness World Records. May 25, 2022. https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2022/5/sebastian-steudtner-surfs-giant-wave-and-smashes-world-record-705874
Smith, Craig B. 2006. Extreme Waves. Washington, DC: Joseph Henry Press. https://doi.org/10.17226/11635
Smith, F. G. Walton. 1973. The Seas in Motion: Waves, Tides, and Currents—How They Work; Their Causes and Effects. New York: Thomas Y. Crowell. https://archive.org/details/seasinmotion00fgwa
Snodgrass, F. E., K. F. Hasselmann, G. R. Miller, Walter Heinrich Munk, and W. H. Powers. 1966. “Propagation of Ocean Swell across the Pacific.” Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A 259(1103): 431–497. https://doi.org/10.1098/rsta.1966.0022
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Surfer Today. 2023. “Big Wave Surfer Márcio Freire Dies in Nazaré.” Surfer Today. January 6, 2023. https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/big-wave-surfer-marcio-freire-dies-in-nazare
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Warshaw, Matt. 2011. The History of Surfing. San Francisco: Chronicle Books. https://www.chroniclebooks.com/products/the-history-of-surfing
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Wheeler, Dennis, and Clive Wilkinson. 2004. “From Calm to Storm: The Origins of the Beaufort Wind Scale.” Mariner’s Mirror 90(2): 187–201. https://doi.org/10.1080/00253359.2004.10656896